A rare and exceptional late 18th / early 19th century Qing Dynasty official’s rank badge, navy blue ground embroidered ink and color silk thread, depicting a stylized lion qilin mythical beast in a landscape, indicating a first rank military officer, dating to the Qianlong / Jiaqing Period (1736-1820)
The Chinese tradition of wearing rank badges (buzi), also known as Mandarin squares, to demonstrate civil, military or imperial rank began in 1391 during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), and continued throughout the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911).
These insignia were sewn onto or woven into the wearer’s garments to indicate their rank. Civil officials wore insignia with different bird species corresponding to their rank, while animals denoted military officers. Court attire was regulated by imperial decrees such as the Illustrated Precedents for the Ritual Paraphernalia of the Imperial Court, published in 1759.
The fall of the Qing Dynasty in 1911 brought an end to rank insignia. Consequently, many found their way into Western collections.
While several American museums, including New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art, have fine collections, today’s market primarily consists of private buyers. It includes many emerging collectors, who are attracted by their graphic imagery and reasonable prices, particularly of 19th-century examples.
There were four types of rank insignia: imperial, Civil officials’, military and censors’. There were nine different ranks each for civil and military officials. Each of these insignia gave a clear indication of the rank of its wearer.
Military badges
The real or mythical animals that decorate military rank insignia symbolise the wearer’s courage. As with civil officials, the order of ranking creatures varied over time. By the late Qing Dynasty the order was: the mythical qilin, lion, leopard, tiger, bear, panther, rhinoceros (seventh, after 1759, and eighth) and sea horse (not the undersea creature, but an actual horse galloping through the waves). Military officials sat on the emperor’s right, so their animals faced left towards him as a sign of respect.
Military squares are more desirable because they are harder to find than civil badges.
Focusing on the details is essential to identifying animals. At first glance a tiger may look like a panther, until you spot wavy lines or open crescent shapes on its body and three horizontal lines on its forehead to symbolise its status as king of beasts. Panthers, on the other hand, do not have distinguishing marks.
Because rank badges were produced by different artisans across a vast empire for nearly 600 years, they often break the rules. Although certain stylistic trends are associated with certain periods, badges were constantly evolving and so do not fit into well-defined categories.
In the seminal text Ladder to the Clouds: Intrigue and Tradition in Chinese Rank (1999), the collector and scholar Dr David Hugus sums up the problem: ‘Remember this one unvarying rule for Mandarin squares: there are no unvarying rules for mandarin squares.’
Condition is key
Rank badges are made of embroidered silk, brocade or kesi, and the main issue associated with conserving them is the same as for other historic textiles. The silk thread was dyed with organic pigments, which means any fading caused by sun exposure will be permanent. Mandarin squares, and the garments they decorate, are best displayed away from direct sunlight.
Rank badges were made to be worn. Collectors should be aware of signs of wear-and-tear: look for well-preserved, intact squares without stains, loosened threads or splitting in the weave. It is almost impossible to find a Ming or early Qing dynasty badge in perfect condition, so keep this in mind when evaluating a rank badge for your collection.
PROVENANCE / ACQUISITION:
A private Gentleman’s Dallas, Texas fine art and antiques collection
Acquired from Dallas Auction Gallery, Dallas, Texas. Owned and curated by Reyne Hirsch, a media personality and expert in 20th century decorative arts. She’s was a top appraiser for Antiques Roadshow on PBS for 13 years, as well as a leading contributer to the Huffington Post, New York Times, Wall Street Journal, Architectural Digest, amongst other publications. She’s also founded highly regarded art galleries and exhibits throughout the United States.
DIMENSIONS:
12″ High, 12.5″ Wide
CONDITION:
A museum quality example, in excellent antique condition. Nicely aged patina / attractive appearance. Expected wear consistent with age & use, including faded color, scattered loose threads and minor losses. Presents well, mounted on later panel
- Dimensions
- 12.5ʺW × 0.12ʺD × 12ʺH
- Styles
- Chinese
- Qing
- Period
- Late 18th Century
- Item Type
- Vintage, Antique or Pre-owned
- Materials
- Silk
- Color
- Navy Blue
- Condition Notes
A museum quality example, in excellent antique condition. Nicely aged patina / attractive appearance. Expected wear consistent with age & …
moreA museum quality example, in excellent antique condition. Nicely aged patina / attractive appearance. Expected wear consistent with age & use, including faded color, scattered loose threads and minor losses. Presents well, mounted on later panel. less
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